Part 1: Shooting From The Land
The Complete Guide to
Surf Photography.
Everything you need to start taking surf photos like a seasoned pro: the right kit, camera settings, and how to set up for the best results shooting from the beach.
This part covers land-based surf photography, shooting from the shore rather than in the water. What kit you need, how to set up your camera on manual mode, and the settings that actually matter.
The Short Version
A cameraDSLR or mirrorless, with interchangeable lenses. Nothing fancier is required.
A telephoto lens70-300mm for piers and shorebreaks, closer to 600mm for spots like Fistral.
A tripod or monopodYour arms, and your keeper rate, will thank you.
Manual mode know-howFast shutter, low ISO, f/4-f/8. Covered in full below.
Land vs Water
Surf photography splits into two basic camps: on land, or in the water. This guide is all about the land.
Surf photography, and videography, can be divided into two basic camps: on land or in water. For this guide, we'll focus on land-based surf photography, which includes shooting from the shore, a pier, or anywhere you're not physically in the water. You'll need different equipment depending on which one you're doing, so this guide dives into exactly what you need to capture the best surf shots from land.
Looking for a company to deliver your premium surf video production? Head to our surf video page for more details, or see our Cornwall video production page for everything else we shoot in the county. Otherwise, let's get into it: Part 1, land-based surf photography, aka surf photography from the beach.
Choosing a Camera
Is there a correct camera for surf photography?
"No. The best camera for surf photography is the one you have and feel comfortable using."
Essentially, there are no strict requirements. You can take a photo of someone surfing on your phone, digitally zoom in, and just about make out a grainy block of pixels that is your mate surfing. To take the highest quality surf photos, though, you'll want something a little more specialised: a camera with interchangeable lenses, and most likely a tripod or monopod to balance it on.
If you're already into photography, chances are you have a DSLR or mirrorless camera in mind. Both are great for surf photography. The one requirement is that you want interchangeable lenses, details on which we get to in a moment. If you're just starting out, don't get too caught up in the DSLR vs mirrorless debate, either can deliver fantastic results.
When shopping, you'll also come across the terms cropped sensor (APS-C and similar) and full frame. These refer to the physical size of the sensor that captures your photo, and when shooting telephoto surf photography, it genuinely affects the shot:
- Cropped sensorSmaller than a 35mm frame, which adds a multiplication factor to your lens. A 300mm lens on an APS-C camera behaves like a 450mm lens on full frame, useful extra reach for capturing surfers from a distance.
- Full frameMatches the size of 35mm film. Typically found on higher-end cameras, these let in more light, perform better in low light, and give a shallower depth of field for that dreamy blurred background.
Quick Tip
For surf photography, both work well. Cropped sensors can help bring the action closer without needing a super-long lens, while full frame tends to edge it on image quality, though with today's sensors the gap is fairly marginal for most people.
Recommended Gear
Cameras and lenses worth considering.
I shoot with and love Fujifilm cameras. Tactile, beautiful files, and a burst rate that keeps up with the sport. If you want to save some cash and go secondhand, fantastic cameras despite their age are the Fujifilm X-T1, X-T2 or X-T3. Here's the current line-up worth considering, whichever system you're in. All links go straight to the listing on Amazon. Want to see this kit in action? Our Rubicon RAW campaign at Fistral during Boardmasters was shot on this exact kit list.
Mirrorless Cameras
Fujifilm X-T5
My pick if you're starting out today. The direct successor to the X-T4 I've shot for years, same tactile dials, gorgeous files.
View on Amazon →Fujifilm X-H2S
A premium APS-C camera, perfect for surf photography, with the fastest burst and tracking in the Fuji line-up.
View on Amazon →Fujifilm X-S20
A smaller, budget-friendly option, and its smaller sibling the X-T30 II is also excellent if you can find one.
View on Amazon →Sony A6700
A popular option with a cropped sensor and excellent autofocus tracking for a moving subject like a surfer.
View on Amazon →Sony A7 IV
One of the best full-frame mirrorless cameras around and still Sony's current mainstream all-rounder.
View on Amazon →Canon EOS R10
Canon's budget-friendly stills camera, a genuinely capable entry point into the RF mount.
View on Amazon →Canon EOS R5 Mark II
Full-frame beast. If budget isn't the deciding factor, this is about as capable as it gets right now.
View on Amazon →Also Worth a Look
Nikon Z6III
A solid choice for Nikon shooters and the natural upgrade path now Nikon's DSLR line has been retired.
View on Amazon →Canon EOS R6 Mark II
A reliable, full-frame all-rounder, the modern equivalent of the 5D Mark IV for serious photographers.
View on Amazon →
Lenses
A quick word of warning: not every lens fits every camera. Each manufacturer makes its own lenses, and third-party brands make lenses to fit other manufacturers' mounts too, so check compatibility before you buy. The bigger the number in mm, the closer that lens brings your subject. Shooting somewhere close to the surfers, like a pier or a shorebreak, a common 70-300mm will get you decent results. Somewhere like Fistral or Watergate Bay, where surfers sit further out, you'll want to get closer to 600mm.
Fujifilm XC 50-230mm
A budget-friendly option for Fuji APS-C bodies, light enough to carry all day.
View on Amazon →Fujifilm XF 100-400mm
A higher-end choice for greater reach, weather-sealed and sharp throughout the zoom range.
View on Amazon →Tamron 70-300mm
A well-reviewed, affordable telephoto, shown here in Sony E-mount, also available for other mirrorless systems.
View on Amazon →Sony FE 200-600mm
Perfect for capturing distant surfers, the lens I'd point anyone with a Sony body towards for serious reach.
View on Amazon →On a Budget
Surf photography can get expensive fast.
Get a teleconverter. A cheaper 70-300mm lens paired with a teleconverter gives you extra reach without buying a new lens outright. It does reduce the light hitting your sensor, but you'll usually be shooting in daylight anyway.
Buy secondhand. There are plenty of great secondhand lenses and bodies on eBay and Facebook Marketplace that need a new home. Keep hunting and you'll find real deals.
Consider vintage glass. Old lenses originally built for film cameras are manual focus, but you get a lot of lens for a lot less money than the autofocus equivalent. I love shooting manual telephotos, they give a genuinely unique feel to an image. Just check carefully for mist, fog or fungus before you buy, and confirm it'll actually mount to your camera, often via an adapter.
Stability
Tripods and monopods: your arms will thank you.
If you've made it all the way to the beach, you're probably planning on taking more than one or two photos, especially with a heavy lens. A tripod or monopod keeps you focused on the right patch of ocean, ready for the next wave.
Tripods
Three legs give you the steadiest hold for the heaviest gear, and let you be hands-free between sets. The trade-off is size and weight, so look for one with a smooth tracking head, or following a surfer along a wave gets fiddly.
Neewer Tripod with Fluid Head
A dependable, well-reviewed heavy duty tripod with a 360° fluid drag head, good value for the support it offers.
View on Amazon →Manfrotto 055 + 502 Fluid Head
A professional heavy-duty tripod and fluid head system, the current equivalent of the pro Manfrotto combo.
View on Amazon →Monopods
One leg that screws to the base of your camera or lens. Less support than a tripod, but faster to set up and, in my experience, easier to track a surfer with. I actually prefer a monopod for exactly that reason.
Amazon Basics Monopod
Cheap, cheerful, and does exactly what I need it to. This is the one I actually use.
View on Amazon →
Harry Timpson, shot from the landCamera Settings
Shutter speed, ISO, aperture and burst mode, at a glance.
Shutter Speed
1/1000s+
The general rule with telephoto lenses is 1 over the focal length, but for genuinely sharp surf photos you want at least 1/1000th of a second, and up to 1/4000th on very bright days.
Pro Tip
Shooting in very bright conditions? Push it up towards 1/4000th to be safe.
ISO
As low as possible
Keep it low to retain detail. Not too noticeable up to ISO 400, but push past 1600 and you'll start seeing real grain. Overcast days with pumping surf, like a Cornish winter, may force it higher.
Quick Tip
On overcast or low light days, don't be afraid to push to 1600 or higher, just keep an eye on grain.
Aperture
f/4 to f/8
Lower f-stop gives that creamy blurred background, higher gives a larger plane of focus. I sit around f/4 in typical UK light, but prefer nearer f/8 as insurance if focus slips slightly.
Quick Tip
Bright day: push shutter and f-stop high, ISO low. Overcast: the opposite, shutter down, ISO up, f-stop low.
Burst Mode
Fastest available
Set your camera to its fastest burst mode. With digital storage this costly, there's no reason to hold back, and you might come away with an entire sequence of a wave.
Pro Tip
Why settle for one frame? A full burst sequence through a manoeuvre often has a better shot buried in it.
Focus Settings
Getting those photos pin sharp, time and time again.
AF-C
Continuous autofocus is the key setting for surf photography. It keeps adjusting focus as the surfer moves through the frame, unlike AF-S, which locks onto a single point.
Quick Tip
Pair AF-C with your fastest burst mode for the best chance of a sharp frame.
Focus Area
A wide focus area is forgiving if your framing isn't precise. Zone focus gives you more control, letting you place a specific area of the frame where you expect the surfer to be.
Pro Tip
Following a surfer on a wave, position the zone in the middle third of the frame.
Subject Tracking
If your camera has it, lock onto the surfer and it'll keep tracking them even as they change direction. Many newer cameras offer eye or face detection too.
Quick Tip
Eye or face detection, where available, is even more precise than standard tracking.
Back-Button Focus
Separates focus from the shutter button, so your camera doesn't refocus every time you shoot. Handy when you've pre-focused on where you expect a surfer to hit a critical section.
Pro Tip
Especially useful when you've pre-focused on where you expect the critical section to happen.
Before You Head Out
Common mistakes worth avoiding.
Shutter Speed Too Slow
The single most common fix. If your surfer looks smeared rather than sharp, that's almost always shutter speed, not focus. Get it to at least 1/1000th before you touch anything else.
Underexposing the Whitewater
A bright sea and sky trick your camera's meter into underexposing the surfer. Check your histogram rather than trusting the brightness of your screen in direct sunlight.
Wrong Autofocus Mode
AF-S locks onto one point and loses a moving surfer almost instantly. AF-C should be your default for any water session, full stop.
Standing Too Far Back
A surfer who's a speck in the ocean is hard to save later. Get more reach, or get physically closer, before you start shooting, not after you've reviewed the shots at home.
Quick Tips
Surf photography FAQ.
What's the best camera for surf photography?
There's no single "best" camera. Both DSLR and mirrorless can produce stunning results. Look for manual settings and interchangeable lenses. Cameras like the Fujifilm X-T5, Sony A6700 or Sony A7 IV are great options, but you can take excellent surf photos with plenty of other models too.
What kind of lens should I use?
A telephoto lens is essential, since you're typically far from the action. The 70-300mm range is a good starting point for most beach shots. For distant surfers, a 400mm or 600mm lens gives you the extra reach. Just make sure the lens fits your camera's mount.
Should I use a tripod for surf photography?
Yes, especially with long, heavy lenses. A tripod with a fluid head gives you the stability for sharper images and helps you smoothly follow the action. A monopod offers more mobility while still cutting down on camera shake.
What's the ideal shutter speed?
At least 1/1000th of a second to freeze a fast-moving surfer. For extra insurance on very bright days, push it up to 1/2000th or higher. A slower speed like 1/30th can create deliberate motion blur, but that takes practice to get right.
What camera settings should I use, in short?
Shutter speed 1/1000th or faster. ISO as low as possible, around 100-400. Aperture f/4 to f/8 for sharp images with reasonable depth of field. Burst mode set to the fastest your camera offers.
Do I need a full-frame camera?
No. Full frame offers advantages like better low-light performance and image quality, but cropped sensor cameras (APS-C) are genuinely great for surf photography, since the crop factor effectively increases your telephoto reach.
How do I keep a moving surfer in focus?
Use continuous autofocus (AF-C) to track them as they move. Many cameras offer subject-tracking modes that help the autofocus system stay locked on. A wide or zone focus area helps when you're capturing the surfer within a larger part of the frame.
What's the best time of day to shoot?
Golden hour, early morning or late afternoon, when the light is softer and produces warm tones. Midday sun creates harsh shadows and can overexpose white water, so be ready to adjust your settings or use a polarising filter to cut the glare.
Can I shoot surf photography with a smartphone?
You can capture basic surf photos on a smartphone, but the quality won't match a DSLR or mirrorless camera with a telephoto lens. Phone cameras have limited zoom and can struggle with fast action, though newer models with longer digital zoom and burst modes can produce decent results in good light.
How do I avoid overexposing the sea and sky?
Lower your ISO, use a higher shutter speed, and consider a polarising filter to reduce glare and reflections. Shooting with your back to the sun, or during softer light like golden hour, also helps a great deal.
Keep Shooting
Now get out there and experiment.
Practice makes perfect. Get out there, try different settings, and most importantly, enjoy it. Follow me on Instagram to see my latest work, and feel free to tag me in your surf photos. If you have any questions, drop me an email, I'm always happy to help.
Need moving pictures rather than stills? See our surf video production page, or our Cornwall video production page for everything else we make in the county.
Not in the water today? Chances are you're on a golf course instead, most surfers seem to end up there. We also shoot golf, outdoor lifestyle and fashion films, if that's more your thing.